By Jim Field
One highlight of our summer stay in Hatteras Village was a day trip we took to Ocracoke Island, which is the next barrier island south of Hatteras Island and only accessible by ferry or personal watercraft. Our destination was Ocracoke Village, the only gathering of humans on this 16-mile ribbon of land, the remaining real estate preserved by the National Park Service as deserted beach and, on the Pamlico Sound side, pristine wet lands. Ocracoke Village, in turn, is located on the southern-most point of land, and organized around a circular harbor called Silver Lake, which offers a beautiful, protected oasis from wind and seas (see photo at left). It is this piece of geography that Blackbeard was known to inhabit.
Approaching Ocracoke from the ocean, one must navigate a rather lengthy, curvy, meandering, channel of extreme beauty, the juxtaposition of sky, white beach, and blue water being exquisite. The seaward shoal and shifting sands make things tricky for the occasional visitor. Once a good way up the channel, and approaching the breakwater, the signage can be especially tricky. Last summer, coming to Ocracoke for the first time--with Fran Jr., Christine, Meghan, and Jack Okoniewski--we put the bow of the Sea Ya Bea into the mud, requiring us to enter waist deep water and push her free, get back onboard and back her down our track, and follow the directions of an irate but ultimately helpful harbormaster. This year I recognized and followed the transitional markers and we entered the breakwater into Silver Lake without a problem. We tied up at the city peer and prepared ourselves for the short walk to lunch on the waterfront at the Jolly Roger (where we ate last year).
The boat's passenger list and landing party that day included:
- Diane, Ollie, Andrew, and Captain Jim Field
- Dina, Emma, Jake, Dan, and Fran Sr. Okoniewski, and
- Steve and Dylan Ebner
Lunch was as expected: lots of chatter, lots of food, hot air beneath fans, and looking out at a million dollar view of birds, boats, and harbor activity. On the way back to the boat, we stopped in at a few shops (e.g., bird decoys) and indulged in ice cream. By the time we cast lines from the pier, a stiff Southeast wind had arisen. The passage out to Ocracoke Inlet threw increasing spray on the bow, eventually forcing everyone back aft. The Inlet channel by this time was in a tempest, throwing considerable spray on cabin windows, the current requiring careful maneuvering to maintain the buoy line. The transit back to Hatteras Inlet was bumpy, causing a few folks (e.g., Diane) some discomfort, although everyone managed to "keep it together" until embraced by the calmer waters inside Hatteras Inlet.
Overall, we had a great day and adventure--for many, visiting Ocracoke Island for the first time. Next year, the plan is to visit Portsmouth Island, next in the chain of barrier islands south of Ocracoke.
Come aboard next year if you can. Can't wait!
Captain Jim (aka Dad) and Ollie at the helm
Dina and Diane chatting on the transit over, enjoying the calm seas
Fran Sr. and Emma kicking back, talking hair
Steve takes in the sun and watches the water
Surveying the inlet from the tuna tower, left to right, Dan, Jake, Andrew, Dylan
Motoring up the channel and approaching breakwater into Silver Lake
Passing abeam of Ocracoke Lighthouse
Through the breakwater, maneuvering in Silver Lake toward pier
Ferry terminal and peer, passed to port with our slip just to right
The Sea Ya Bea tied up at the community pier with Ocracoke Lighthouse in background
Dan strikes a pose and gets ready for walk into town and lunch
Speaking of lunch, here's the spot: Jolly Roger's on Silver Lake
The food is served and the group digs in, with Dan singing a pirate song
Diane listens while "working" on her meal
View from the table: pelicans on the pilings--love these majestic birds!
And to the left, a newly-arrived shrimper offloads its catch
Headed back to Hatteras, Dan in cockpit taking in last view of Silver Lake
Manning the tower for return transit--Andrew and Dylan
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